Susie Everhart of Susie’s Grass Fed Meats is emphatic, “Omega 6 is too high in our modern diet, but grass fed meat is high in Omega 3.” Show Me Farms states on their brochure that “flax fed beef has 600% more Omega-3 fatty acids.” The sentiment is supported by such prominent experts as Dr. Andrew Weil and most purveyors at the Columbia Farmers Market. This adherence to chemical free and sustainable agricultural methods is not the passing fad of boutique farmers jumping on a marketing bandwagon. It’s the mission of Missouri’s Department of Agriculture.
A Member of the National Farmers Market Coalition
Founded in 1980 the Columbia Farmers Market is a non-profit, member owned organization of 85 small farmers, food producers and artisans. It is part of the national Farmers Market Coalition and has enjoyed the active support of the city, the Chamber of Commerce and my host, the Columbia Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Carolyn Todd is the Market Director and a board member of the Farmers Market Coalition. “It’s a producers only market,” explains Carolyn, meaning that all items for sale have been grown or made by the vendors. “Local is not 1,500 miles away,” as she informs me that membership is open to producers living within a 55 mile radius of Columbia.
Members pay $250 annual dues plus additional fees depending on the size of their stall. Carolyn states that vendors of prepared foods such as pastas, honey and cheese “do not need a certified kitchen to sell up to $30,000 annually in Missouri.”
Thirty Years of Columbia Support
The city gives active support by providing the major site for the Saturday morning and Wednesday afternoon market on the grounds of the Columbia Activity and Recreation Center. A Thursday market south of town and a Friday one north of Columbia give residents easy access to the fresh products the market provides. On winter Saturdays the Rockbridge Christian Church provides indoor space making the market a year-round fixture. That’s a good service considering on average 5,000 people a day patronize the market.
Mark Mahnken, of Missouri Legacy Beef, says that the “Biggest initiative is to build a permanent structure.” Yet even without their own building, the market’s reputation is growing. The University of Missouri has hosted several markets on their campus to the enthusiastic response of students. The Marriott Courtyard hotel will soon be carrying goat soap products made by a market vendor.
Garlic Originated in Ancient Persia
Chert Hollow Farm’s stand caught my eye with dozens of dried garlic bulbs on the stalk hanging from the stall. Despite my love of garlic, and being a chef, I was unaware that garlic originated in ancient Persia and migrated to Eastern Europe, still the major supplier of quality garlic. Among farmer Eric Reuter’s dozen varieties, six were Eastern European: Georgian Fire, Russian Giant, Samarkand, Bogatyn, Shvelisi and Siberian.
Many Americans are unaware that not all garlic tastes the same. Most commercial garlic is grown in China and very mild, whereas varieties like Russian Giant burst with a tangy, sharp spicy flavor that will raise pesto or Roasted Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic to new heights.
How to Store and Prepare Garlic
Eric told me that garlic is a specialty crop not many farms are growing, yet it has an advantage for the farmer as an off-season crop – plant in spring and harvest in late summer. It’s important that the bulbs are not sealed in plastic but are left to rest and breathe out of direct sun light. If storing garlic for long term, it's best to keep the bulbs on the stalk.
Chert Hollow Farm has a nice selection of recipes on its web site but none for Roasted Garlic Ice Cream. Don’t laugh, Roasted Garlic Ice Cream is a terrific savory treat. Follow Eric’s preparation and roast five large heads of garlic. Mash them and add to any good recipe for French Vanilla Ice Cream. A prominent Columbia pizza parlor, Red & Moe Pizza, uses Chert Hollow Farm garlic.
Agritourism is a Growing Trend
Vera Geoder of Walk-About Acres has 20 years experience as a bee keeper. She enjoys the Agritourism aspect of owning a family farm especially for school children. She believes strongly that an educated public will be nutritionally healthier eaters and be aware of how modern life can interfere with the natural order.
“Four years ago I lost 50% of my 80 hives to CCD (Colony Collapse Disorder). Over the last decade fungus and virus has created a perfect storm. We also know that our century old bottom to top hive design is unnatural. It’s the opposite of nature and may contribute to bee stress,” a possible contributor to CCD. “In 2000 there were 400 varieties of bees but by 2011, 50 have gone extinct.” As much as I enjoy Buckwheat or Lavender honey, Vera cautions that “single flower pollination is not good for hive health.” A varied diet is best.
I’ve been to many Farmers Markets but few offer this variety of products, a very educational experience as well as such informative participants eager to impart their considerable knowledge. The roving accordion player, the knife sharpener and Patric Chocolate’s ultra rich brownies prove that even when it’s good for you it can be fun.
Marc d'Entremont - Years of experience as a chef, historian and teacher guides my travel and food writing. I explore all things that shape a culture.
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