"We're into the business of throwing a party."
Kurt Mirtsching, Director of Everything, Shakespeare's Pizza, Columbia, MO
Every self-respecting college town has to have a good pizza restaurant - I think it's a law - but how many are voted by Good Morning America as the "Best College Hangout" in the country. That's just one surprising fact of this attractive leafy mid-western city of 100,000 which swells every academic year by another 50,000 young adults.
North Village Arts District
I like low-rise cities that have preserved their distinct architecture. Columbia reflects the Craftsmen and Art Deco styles in both their pre-1940's residential and commercial buildings. What is today the North Village Arts District was an area of warehouses, working class housing, the train station and assorted small businesses that made up a typical "other side of the tracks" neighborhood. The revival from boarding house to shabby chic began with its discovery in the late 1960's by that era's avant garde - OK, the hippie movement of artists and musicians. North Village today sports galleries, affordable artist studio/lofts, cafes, a popular farmers' market and the handsome train station that's now the bus terminal.
Anyone who has spent their money on expensive museum reproductions will be depressed when they see the high quality original art and jewelry at Perlow-Stevens Gallery they could have purchased for less than they spent on copies. It confirms a reality I learned years ago that reproductions can never compete with originals. The attractive space highlights Missouri artists and rotates exhibits every three months. Just a block over is the eclectic collection of arts, crafts, clothing - some one-of-a-kind wearable art - and artist studio space of Artlandish Gallery.
Orr Street Studios, in a renovated warehouse, is not atypical for working artists, except that each modest space is faced by stunning original three-dimensional sliding doors - the work of artist Chris Teeter. What is usually a simple working/retail space is transformed into a work of art on its own, worthy of anyone's time. These are but a few of the galleries in Columbia. The city's Cultural Affairs Office publishes an excellent guide available both in the shops and online.
Every Monday, Eli Gay's Cafe Berlin serves the homeless. Root Cellar, a sustainable foods market specializing in Missouri products will open soon as well as a farmers' market on Sundays. The North Village exudes a strong sense of community, "Everyone's purpose is to create a better environment" is their mantra according to Jennifer Perlow.
Roots n Blues n BBQ Festival
The Blue Note Theater started its life as a typical vaudeville/movie venue during that golden age in 1927 and, just as predictably, entered a long period of decline after the 1940's. Rescued in the 1980's from destruction, it has emerged as a major force for musical events ever since. The Roots n Blues n BBQ Festival is its crowning achievement. Every year it brings dozens of blues and jazz groups, the Missouri bbq contest and thousands of music/food lovers to summer time Columbia to rock, eat and enjoy the streets of downtown Columbia. Given the strong ethic for community involvement, The Blue Note's impresario, Richard King, is deeply involved with Columbia's Blues in the Schools program.
True/False Film Festival
Many residents of 21st century urban areas have gravitated to community based non-profit theaters as an alternative to the bland Hollywood overpriced venues of the megaplex. Columbia's Rag Tag Theater bests most that I've experienced, starting with its old and impressive brick and glass commercial space. In the lobby is an attractive and spacious cafe/full bar operated by Uprise Bakery, which, by the way, corns its own brisket. Besides their attractive space and cafe, the theater is host to America's leading documentary film festival, the True/False Film Festival. This international documentary film festival, now in its 9th year, is held over four days the first weekend in March. Thousands of people have the opportunity to view nearly 100 feature length and short films and join in discussions with their filmmakers. Viewing one of the shorts, Big Birding Day, made by the Festival's young co-founder, David Wilson (Paul Surtz is the second half of the team) justified to me the glowing reviews and increasing national reputation of this individualistic event.
The University of Missouri
Mizzou, MU or just plain The Zou: the venerable University of Missouri has the double distinction of being one of the original government funded land grant colleges in the nation - 1839 - and having the world's oldest School of Journalism. Founded in 1908 by newspaper man Walter Williams of Boonetown, the school set the standards for journalistic ethics in the age of "yellow journalism" - which, unfortunately, still pervades our "modern" media. Touring the impressive facilities with Dr. Keith Politte, director of the Reynolds Journalism Institute, the state of the art multi-media studios and cutting edge educational technology did help lessen my disappointment in the decline of print media. No matter the format, strict admission standards, rigorous curriculum and a strong ethical foundation are preparing students for the 22nd century. The entire multi thousand acre campus is officially a botanical garden overseen by a small army of professional and student gardeners under the enthusiastic direction of Pete Millier. Among the University's treasures is its Museum of Archaeology in a beautiful early 20th century structure. Unknown to me before my tour, the original grave marker of Thomas Jefferson is on Mizzou's grounds. A gift from the family, it signifies our third President's pride in one of his greatest achievements, the Lewis and Clark expedition which started in Missouri. On a lighter note, a life size bronze sculpture of Beetle Bailey sitting at a picnic table graces the campus and is a terrific photo op! Mort Walker, creator of the comic strip, was an alumnus and based many of his first characters on his fraternity brothers.
Food, Food and More Food
Columbia certainly does not lack a wide assortment of eating establishments, nearly all within easy walking distance within downtown. Addison's bills itself as "an American grill" and in this heartland of barbeque, their signature sauce, FNG, on their baby back ribs, earns them their moniker. Yet Chef Jeremy Brown's menu is a nice blend of Southwest, Asian and pasta fusion dishes. The Ahi Tuna Amuse-Bouche appetizer is a tasty layering of sushi grade tuna on a tomato tortilla chip topped with pickled ginger, scallions, red pepper, sesame seeds, cilantro, lemon cream cheese and a honey soy reduction.
Shakespeare's Pizza has been a Columbia institution since 1973 and is still owned by the Lewis family who has staunchly resisted large sums of money for their prime downtown real estate. Famous for its smorgasbord of toppings and extensive beer selections, its mission statement keeps both employees and customers happy as well as paying off handsomely both in profits and worker longevity - "Show up every day and do what's necessary" and "You know what to do, but what do you think?"
If you have a craving for coffee & donut, bacon, blackberry sage or lemon rosemary ice cream than Sparky's Homemade Ice Cream will more than satisfy. When Sparky's advertises "small batch" that's a literal statement. Each batch size is four gallons and given Columbia's penchant for employee decision making, that results in many new and experimental flavors. For vegetarian and vegan devotees the Main Squeeze Natural Foods Cafe serves imaginative dishes and the freshest of in-house made juices: organic carrot juice, celery/ ginger/apple/lemon juice combo and an intense berry smoothie to mention only three. The Chickun Salad, made from organic tofu, pecans, dried cherries, celery, red onion, parsley and spices, could almost fool a meat lover. I watched two young women enter the restaurant with fresh produce under their arms from their small farm for owner Leigh Lockhart to purchase, giving fresh meaning to the almost overused terms "locally sourced" and "sustainable." Leigh collects donations for Columbia's Food Bank and is involved with Central Latino which provides services to the Latino community and is directed by one of her best customers, Eduardo Crespi - who just happened to be sitting in back of me (we had a good talk).
Bleu Restaurant and Wine Bar is on the cutting edge of the "cocktail revolution" with their Rosemary Lemonade, Cucumber Basil Cooler and Port Cosmo, all creations of Rick Trippler. Chef Ben Parks describes his menu as contemporary American - "whatever works with fresh local ingredients" - pairing Duck Confit with apples, brie and caramelized onions on flatbread, Pork Shank and Roasted Portabella Bolognese, Basil Coconut Steamed Mussels - I could have eaten several dozen - and Grilled Salmon with lemon fennel risotto and saffron cream sauce. All are beautiful to gaze upon and delicious to consume.
Chef Mike Odette's Sycamore has been awarded the Slow Food Snail of Approval for adhering to farm to table principles. Meat is fabricated in-house, a local Mennonite dairy supplies the eggs, milk and cream, the beef tenderloin is from a Missouri Legacy beef ranch and even the trout is from the Lake of the Ozarks. Chef Craig of The Wine Celler & Bistro is a graduate of Kansas City's Jackson County Community College's Culinary School. America's publically funded community colleges are producing great chefs equal to any of the nation's expensive for-profit institutions. The Bistro's walls are lined floor to ceiling with, what else, bottles of wine, all for sale and all intelligently labeled for the customer that doesn't "speak" wine. Whatever you desire to either take home or drink at the Bistro you will find it at Craig and Sarah Cyr's cozy restaurant. It doesn't hurt that Craig is a pastry chef at heart and his killer desserts pair beautifully with so many of their wine selections. A Gerard Bertrand sparkling vintage was just right with his decadent Double Layered Flourless Chocolate Torte. Craig and Sarah assume you're not a wine expert and offer help that make a customer relax and want to learn about and enjoy their selections.
Creating an environment for a visitor/customer to relax and enjoy is a fitting summary for the beautiful small city of Columbia, Missouri. As Mizzou's Dr. Politte commented, "Most interesting things happen when disciplines are blended," so let's blend Bleu's Cucumber Basil Cooler and raise a toast to the town.
Cucumber Basil Cooler
In a mixing glass muddle 1 cucumber slice, 1 or 2 leaves fresh basil, 1 oz. sour mix
Add 1-1/2 oz. Hendrix Gin and top with ice
Give the above a quick shake to mix ingredients
Strain into Double Old-fashioned glass with ice
Top with Riesling and garnish with cucumber slice
Marc d'Entremont - Years of experience as a chef, historian and teacher guides my travel and food writing. I explore all things that shape a culture.
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