Sometimes periods of decline have their advantages when the incentive to "modernize" evaporates causing older buildings to lie fallow until the business cycle comes full circle. The 1926 President Hotel, a magnificent example of early 20th century urban luxury, once more gleams having been saved in the late 1990s literally one day before the wrecking ball. It reopened in 2006 after a $45 million restoration and is now under Hilton management. Its stunning interior shines with intricate gold leaf decorations, the restored original marble mosaic floors, the magnificent mirrored gold and white Congress Ballroom – decked out for a wedding reception on the day of my visit – and the Art Deco jewel box The Drum Room, once the City's premiere jazz venue, again in full swing. Of course, it still has a presidential suite.
Downtown and the Power & Light Entertainment District
Kansas City's Downtown business district, for this east coast urban native, is blissfully quiet with lots of space for both pedestrians and cars in the middle of a business day. Like the central core of many American cities, Downtown has undergone a revival once more attracting office workers and businesses back from the suburbs, and especially from that other Kansas City.
The architecture is still 1920 – 1940 Art Deco except many of the buildings are now mixed condo/office structures. Even new buildings blend in or reflect the original architecture. One of the newest is the H&R Block World Headquarters, a gleaming curved glass tower that serves as a mirror for its surrounding environment. Two attractive movie palaces from Hollywood's Golden Age still shine as does the new home of the Kansas City Rep Theater.
For a food lover, Cosentino's Market is a gourmet haven of cheeses, wines, organic produce, prime meats and pastries to die for. The huge candy counter highlights one of the city's rising stars, Christopher Elbow's exquisite chocolates. Each small handmade piece is a work of art and well worth the $2.50 (each) indulgence. Made to order deli sandwiches and prepared foods can be taken home or consumed in the attractive mezzanine dining area overlooking a kaleidoscope of colors and activity. If you don't think your BBQ has been hot enough lately you can always eat at the Genghis Grill down the street where the Mongolian barbeque is sure to set you aflame.
Crossroads Arts District
Kansas City is still a railroad hub with freight and Amtrak whisking travelers among the east coast, west coast and the Great Lakes, but modern transportation has diminished the once hectic activity. The surrounding train yards and outlying warehouses fell on hard times and many were abandoned until artists and startup companies discovered that the simple yet sturdy brick buildings made good, inexpensive studio space. Over the past decade the Crossroads Arts District has risen with eclectic shops, cafes and apartments. The expanding Kansas City Convention and Arts Center borders one side and the tracks the other. The district is home to a thriving Latino community with the Mexican consulate and some good restaurants. At family owned Manny's I had excellent Pork Tamales covered with a creamy Monterey Jack cheese sauce with chilies.
Union Station
Classic, monumental Union Station is still impressive and serves Amtrak customers traveling all over the country. It may not be bustling with thousands of riders as in years past, but it is a very busy family tourist attraction with its handsome murals, the home of the city's science museum, a post office, a museum to the history of the city and an attractive bi-level lobby restaurant open until 3 p.m. The highlight for me was its terrific model railroad museum with half a dozen huge operating platforms all sponsored and maintained by local railroad clubs.
World War I Memorial
Kansas City is home to America's only National World War I Memorial dedicated in 1925 and entirely funded through private community donations. Set amidst acres of green lawn atop a hill offering a panoramic view of downtown and the surrounding city, the impressive Art Deco monument and its museum avoid rhetoric and set their focus on the sacrifice of the many millions who lost their lives for causes and nations they believed, at the time, were in the right.
Although Kansas City is a sprawling urban collection of neighborhoods it is both easy to navigate by car or public transportation. The city is linked with a good system of fast, clean busses. It is this neighborhood environment which creates a small town feel ideal for wandering and discovering what is unique in each district.
Marc d'Entremont - Years of experience as a chef, historian and teacher guides my travel and food writing. I explore all things that shape a culture.
Join the Conversation