It’s best if you do not suffer from a fear of heights while standing in front of the towering window walls inside Les Bourgeois’ Blufftop Bistro. The panoramic vista of lush countryside hundreds of feet above the Missouri River could distract you from Executive Chef Aaron Wells-Morgan's superb cuisine.
Blufftop Bistro’s seasonal menu
The spacious, airy and simple dining room may only be a foil for the stunning vista outside but once eyes start eating the artfully presented dishes being placed on neighboring tables, patrons soon realize why they made the trip to Blufftop Bistro. Chef Wells-Morgan is a master at pairing flavors that are familiar with visually fascinating culinary architecture. At both my visits for lunch, as a guest of the Columbia Convention and Visitors Bureau, I had no problem being entertained by his imaginative reinterpretations of what sound like old favorites.
Like many fine restaurants, Chef Wells-Morgan alters the menu frequently taking advantage of the area’s freshest local ingredients. Last May’s BLT Salad included meaty slices of smoked pork belly “sandwiched” between a creamy dressed wedge lettuce salad and multicolored tomatoes. September’s variation on this theme was a deconstructed BLT Wrap minus the tortilla. The slices of pork belly lay on leaves of romaine with side dishes of garlicky aioli with mustard seeds, sauteed mushrooms and halved cherry tomatoes. Creating your own lettuce wrap BLT was creative and fun – I believe in playing with your food.
Missouri's Legacy Beef
Missouri is justly proud of its humanely raised, grass fed beef cattle – Legacy Beef. The result is lean, tender full flavored meat. In May a succulent grilled fillet topped creamy grits and sauteed greens. September’s variation was Steak and Fries, a grilled hanger steak and Vidalia onions paired with garlic parmesan pommes frites served in a traditional Parisian paper cone.
Appetizers and salads can be a menu’s most imaginative section and Chef Wells-Morgan does not disappoint. A plate of shrimp, pan seared scallops, warm purple potato salad with a macadamia nut dressing and cilantro oil last May was nearly an entree. A September offering of Gorgonzola Cheesecake, light in texture with a subtle gorgonzola taste was topped with pesto and marinara sauce. The portion was large enough to share with two or three people. Personally, I thought the marinara was a distraction whereas the pesto added a piquant contrast to the rich cheese. An inspired Arugula Salad topped paper thin slices of duck prosciutto – moist, sweeter and less salty than traditional ham – with spicy candied nuts, shavings of asiago cheese and meaty Madjul dates.
The winery
Cory Bomgaars is Les Bourgeois accomplished winemaker and Marilyn Ellsasser is the knowledgeable and affable tasting room manager. Thirty acres of Les Bourgeois land is in grapes with many more acres on vineyards managed by the winery. The list of awards is too long to elaborate. Like all modern wineries, reds tend to be aged in American or French oak and whites in stainless steel. Yet unlike most wineries, tastings are free.
The State Grape
- Norton is Missouri’s State Grape and makes an incomparable dry red wine with a light fruit nose and medium body yet rich in berry flavors. Despite the grape’s high level of tannins, its oak aged process results in a smooth dry finish. Les Bourgeois variations are equally superb.
- Norton Premium Claret is a 100% Norton blend from a variety of Missouri vineyards.
- Norton Reserve is 100% Norton from Les Bourgeois own vineyard. Cory advises that it’s “best opened a couple hours before drinking.”
- Norton Port is much lighter in body than traditional ports and only 7% to 8% sugar.
Norton even has its own glass! The unique long stemmed bulb curves in at the top forcing your nose into the glass like a brandy snifter. Your nose drinks in the aromas before your lips taste the wine.
Unique vintages from a unique vineyard
- Brut Sparkling Wine is a Double Gold winner of mostly Vidal grapes. Its fizzy citrus notes are injected right up the nose and has a crisp fresh taste. The winery makes only 200 to 300 cases per year.
- The Special Chardonel – Wine Makers Select – results from leaving a portion of what’s left at the bottom of the French oak casks after removing the normal chardonel. That portion sits for an additional nine months allowing the yeast to smooth out the tannins creating a full bodied dry white rich in apple and pear notes. Les Bourgeois makes only 48 cases year.
- A very special Vidal Blanc results from grapes that are harvested twelve weeks after prime time. With notes of citrus and flowers and a full body, this unique white is sweet but not cloying. It would be great as a dessert wine or with pate.
It’s not often that I’m introduced to an excellent vineyard that’s paired with an equally imaginative restaurant. A traveler in this part of beautiful central Missouri not only will enjoy memorable wines and cuisine, but can drive just a few miles down the road and rest in superb comfort in the numerous accommodations available in historic Rocheport and walk off the extra calories on the Katy Trail while relaxing in utter peace and quiet. Perhaps this is paradise.
Marc d'Entremont - Years of experience as a chef, historian and teacher guides my travel and food writing. I explore all things that shape a culture.
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