The great 10th century religious city of Wat Phu was once the terminus of a road directly connecting it to Angkor Thom, the royal capital of the Khmer Empire hundreds of miles to the south. Centuries of neglect have left mere ruins which are undergoing extensive restoration sponsored by various European nations. The lush and hilly surrounding countryside of the once sizable city is preserved as a World Heritage Site.
Not in ruins is the last and most recent palace of the Champasak royal family in Pakse, Laos’ second largest city. Completed in the mid 1970’s, after the last prince left the country following the revolution, it is now the very comfortable Champasak Palace Hotel. Built on the banks of the Xedone River, the multi storied terraced galleries provide every room full cross ventilation and commanding views of a rapidly developing city sprawled along the Mekong.
From Champasak Kingdom to Adventure Tourism
Pakse, the old kingdom’s capital, has fading late 18th/19th century colonial architecture that tells its history as a major commercial link among France’s expanding Indochina “protectorates.” The collapse of colonial power and the 1975 revolution brought economic decline to the south, but backpackers in the 1990’s started a new movement. With over five dozen distinct ethnic groups (some with separate languages), many living in remote villages, a low population density and a large percentage of land with protected natural wonders, it’s no wonder Laos was discovered by tourists seeking a Southeast Asia barely in the 20th century.
Cheap airfares, especially from Australia, and even cheaper cost of living, attracted budget seekers of alternative vacations to the sleepy isolated islands of the Siphandon. To the east the Bolavan Plateau experienced a resurgence of coffee plantations. Pakse’s modern bridge over the Mekong and a new airport, coupled with renewed interest by the Ministry of Tourism, has attracted investment – the dust of deconstruction and new construction speaks of change.
Pakse
It is necessary to stay at least one overnight in Pakse while traveling within southern Laos since it is the transportation hub. Several new multi story hotels are under construction that will compete with the existing list of decent accommodations. At an average price of less than US$50 a night per couple, with breakfast, the Champasak Palace Hotel offered all the amenities, a good restaurant and beautiful gardens, although the mattress could have been thicker.
In the evening, and especially on weekends, the Mekong’s riverside is bustling with dozens of small outdoor cafes along its several miles length. Floating barge restaurants dot the water and many are all day cafes. Sunset over the west bank of the Mekong is a stunning backdrop for an evening meal. The Ban Lao (US$2.50 for 2 via tuk-tuk from the hotel) served very good Laotian dishes (salt crusted grilled grilled river fish, baked fresh peanuts, spicy squid salad, a clear soup with pork as soft as tofu) at moderate prices – dinner for 2, with Beer Lao and five dishes, was less than $20/couple.
Surprisingly, we were served purple sticky rice. This nutty deep purple variety of Laos' ubiquitous grain is usually reserved for desserts. Although a festive addition to dinner and delicious even when not sweetened, I was reminded of my favorite recipe for Purple Sticky Rice in Coconut Sauce. It's easy to prepare and makes an impressive presentation at the table.
Ecotourism in Southern Laos
Unfortunately, at this point in its reincarnation, Pakse offers little to justify a longer stay unless it’s used as a base for day trips to the Bolavan Plateau and Wat Phu. Pakse is the “gateway to the Bolavan Plateau,” a cool jungle covered region of protected national park and coffee plantations, that is poised to become the next trend setting destination for adventure/ecotourism. The Ministry of Tourism is actively training and assisting in the opening of “home stays” in local villages and towns and several upscale rustic eco resorts are already established.
The ruins of Wat Phu are worth visiting whether on a day trip, traveling to the Siphandon or an overnight in Champasak. Although little remains of the once great temple city, the site itself is beautiful, considered sacred ground, and quite a hike up the hill to the city's upper boundary. The remaining buildings are under active restoration and a visit provides an opportunity to observe the painstaking work. The ancient capital of Champasak town is undergoing infrastructure renovations and is poised to develop as a tourist stop with both small hotels and home-stays.
The Siphandon/4,000 Islands
The last 30 miles of the Mekong within Laos, before it flows into Cambodia, is known as the Siphandon – literally the 4,000 Islands. Its beauty, and sometimes its peace and quiet, has become legendary among seekers of alternative travel and a model for Laos in planing ecotourism’s future development.
Marc d'Entremont - Years of experience as a chef, historian and teacher guides my travel and food writing. I explore all things that shape a culture.
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