The Siphandon is a watery land. For a variety of geologic reasons, the swift flowing Mekong River broadens its width creating a shallow environment that encompasses thousands of tiny rock and tree outcroppings up to the large island of Don Khong – the 4,000 Islands. Boat transportation is, in many cases, the only way to navigate among the islands and to either shore of the mainland. It’s a rich fishing area and children learn from an early age the art of casting a net while standing up in a long narrow canoe-like boat.
Don Khong
Don Khong is large enough to contain dozens of hills and several villages. When traveling around it loses the island feel and gives way to lush farms of rice and tobacco. Muang Khong, the main town, has most of the island’s dozen or so accommodations and restaurants. Stretching along the river facing east, the views of busy daytime river life fade into spectacular sunsets, star filled quiet evenings and equally stunning sunrises. The Hotel Senesothxeune, one of the town’s best, is set in an attractive garden with great river views. The moderate price included a spacious room with comfortable beds and breakfast.
The village of Muang Khong is the government administrative center for the Siphandon. Otherwise, it serves the tourist trade. Most visitors are seeking peace and quiet and their desire will be fulfilled. Yet, keep in mind, the peace and quiet may include amplified music from the town across the river starting at 6:00 a.m. – Laotian pop mixed with Buddhist devotional.
The accommodations and restaurants are all within an easy 10-15 minutes walk of each other. The restaurant at the Pon Arena Hotel is particularly attractive situated on the edge of the river bank with nice views. Serving a variety of traditional Laos dishes that were tasty if not inspiring, as well as Western food, it’s a modest priced venue that’s open from breakfast through dinner – 9:00 p.m. or so.
Touring the 4,000 Islands
Ecotourism/adventure tourism comprise the main activities centered on taking river excursions to the other inhabited islands of Don Deth and Don Khone at the dramatic southern end of the Siphandon. These islands became a haven for backpacking young tourists in the early 1990’s, especially from Australia and Europe. Only recently connected to the electrical grid, Don Deth and Don Khone epitomize the Western vision of a tropical existence, sleeping in a hammock with mosquito netting, playing the guitar at night, picking fruit and spending as little money as possible, which was easy. Although a few small accommodations with air conditioning have arrived with the grid, tourist life is still based on doing nothing but enjoying the moment.
Day tourists come to visit the waterfalls that tumble down to the Cambodian border. On Don Khone, Li Phi Falls is reached by an easy 30 minute walk from the dock or catch a tuk-tuk. Keep in mind that even in January southern Laos is hot, humid and dusty so judge your stamina before setting out on hikes, although walking makes observing rural life up close and personal. For most island Laotians, a 19th century life style is not the distant past. The larger, most dramatic Khong Phapheng Falls is reached via the mainland.
There are many boatmen that offer transportation on the river, or your hotel can help with arrangements. A full day on the river with a private boat will average US$30/couple. Bicycle and motorbike rentals are common, inexpensive and given the small population, easy to navigate within the islands.
Traveling to the Siphandon
Pakse, Laos second largest city, is the center for all tourist arrangements in the south. Offerings from a number of tour agencies include multi-day tours complete with such activities as zip lines and tree house accommodations. Hotels will help with arrangements, especially with choosing the type of transportation and excursions, often charging little to no service fee, but saving a lot of time.
Although the Siphandon/4,000 Islands region is less than 60 miles south of Pakse, the fastest time for the journey is two to three hours by private van (average US$150-200 round trip per van). Six to eight passengers can share the cost and hotel staff may be able to help in linking fellow travelers. Cheaper transportation is available at less comfort and more time. Local buses (with or with out A/C) and open air songthaews make the trip for 10%-40% of a private van. Arrangements can be made as well to travel by boat down the Mekong – generally the highest cost.
Laos is known as southeast Asia’s most relaxed country and the Siphandon must have invented the concept. The region is a nature lover’s dream, and a place where a visitor might just want to dream away their time.
Marc d'Entremont - Years of experience as a chef, historian and teacher guides my travel and food writing. I explore all things that shape a culture.
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