On any photo safari through Zimbabwe, springbok (African gazelle), kudu (large antelope), impala and warthogs are seen by the dozen. Crocodiles make venturing into the rivers for a swim unwise. It does not take that much imagination to realize that these animals, exotic to Western palates, must have been part of the Shona and Ndebele cultural diet. Yet they were farmers, fisherman and ranchers long before the British arrived in the late 19th century. Beef cattle, goats, pigs, fowl and dozens of freshwater river fish along with greens, squash, tubers, peanuts and earlier European introduced produce such as tomatoes, corn and peppers are major ingredients whether in a hotel restaurant or at home.
Gazelle, warthog and crocodile are still available yet, ironically, they are usually found in either luxury restaurants or an average home in the Townships. In urban areas the working man or women and students in brightly colored, starched uniforms are more likely to be found in one of four fast food establishments – Chicken Inn®, Pizza Inn®, Bakers Inn® and Creamy Inn® – all serving industrialized products recognizable to anyone in Liverpool or Detroit.
Dinner at the Inn On Rupurara
Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands is a land of lush green mountains, valleys, waterfalls and wildlife. The Inn On Rupuara, a member of the Inns of Zimbabwe, is set within the Nyanga National Park over looking Rupuara Rock. Climbing the 5,400 foot tall Rock, one of Zimbabwe’s natural symbols, is just one of the activities offered by the Inn and included in the room rates.
Like many inns in Zimbabwe, Rupuara used the area’s natural materials in constructing the rooms and main building. In this case, rock and dark woods. The 17 individual lodges and main building are nestled into the side of a mountain, all with balconies, giving guests a panoramic view of the lush vegetation and valley.
Dinner was served in the handsome split-level main building in a dining room more reminiscent of a London club than rural Africa. Dark green wallpaper, original landscape paintings, decorative china, dark wood ceiling, subdued lighting and tables set with deep red brocade cloth, gleaming silver, china, stemware, vases of flowers and lit candelabra. The set menu changes daily and the service is as formal as the room, an interesting counterpoint to the wildlife park just outside.
A Proper European Menu
- Spinach and Onion Roulade with a Sweet Carrot Sauce
- Cream of Leek and Potato Soup
- Choice of: Grilled Rump Steak topped with Mushrooms, Baked Pork Leg Chop or Pan Fried Nyanga Trout with Tatar Sauce
- Creamy Garlic Potatoes
- Turmeric Rice
- Seasonal Vegetables
- Choice of: Profiteroles Filled with Ice Cream and Chocolate Sauce or Apple Crumble Tartlets with Rum Sauce
One might rightly assume that being a hotel the menu would favor European taste yet this was neither the first nor the last such menu that I would consume during my two weeks touring the country and I was not dining exclusively with Westerners. Besides each item being properly prepared and professionally served there was not a single ingredient on the menu that was not local. These are typical foods of the nation. Personally I prefer meat medium rare, but most Zimbabweans want it well done to the fullest extent of that cooking method. This substantial menu was only $22.00 per person.
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge
Stunning and dramatic Victoria Falls is one of Earth’s great natural creations and Zimbabwe’s busiest tourist attraction. Unfortunately, the town of Victoria Falls has little of interest and is a predictable tourist trap. Yet it’s home to many of Zimbabwe’s finest hotels including the luxe Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.
On their website, the Lodge describes MaKuwa-Kuwa restaurant’s menu as offering “a wide variety of internationally-styled cuisine – with a hint of Africa!” Fortunately there is more than just a hint of Africa, yet for a Western clientele it’s probably best to let them see the menu once they are seated. Situated in the Safari Lodge’s architecturally stunning main building high on a hillside, the dining room overlooks the wild animal watering grounds below.
Menu Highlights from MaKuwa-Kuwa
Being part of a group of ten gave us the opportunity to create a virtual tasting menu.
- Marinated Warthog Fillet served with Sage Scented Potato Strudel and White Wine Flavored BBQ Sauce
- House Smoked Guinea Fowl Breast with Passion Fruit Campari Reduction
- Flame Grilled Impala Tenderloin
- Zambezi Crocodile Tail Simmered in Red Curry
- Zambezi River Bream Pan Fried with Lemon Scented Olive Oil
- Slow Cooked Pasture Raised Lamb Shank
Before anyone gasps at the idea of eating warthog, impala and crocodile, they are not endangered species and taste no more unusual than venison, buffalo or lobster. Under the inspired hands of Chef Henry these delicious dishes were superb fusions of Sub-Sahara African and international ingredients creating new and exciting layers of flavor.
Western and vegetarian selections made up more than half the menu – Wasabi Steak with Mushroom Risotto, Chicken Pot Pie, Baked Vegetable Stuffed Mushrooms and pastas with meatless sauces. Dining at MaKuwa-Kuwa was the finest restaurant experience of the tour and at a fraction of the price than if it was located in New York or London.
Lunch in the Township
To clarify one important point, an African township is not another word for slum. It’s what in the West we’d call a suburb or a subdivision within an urban area. Our trip was organized by the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority and its London director, Ms Felicia Munjaidi, arranged for us to have lunch at the house of her brother in a township on the outskirts of Mutare – all twelve of us. Her brother’s hospitality could not have been more gracious and the lunch was the perfect synthesis of the two previous menus.
Traditionally before eating a meal, a dish of water is placed on the dining table for guests to clean their hands. Felicia’s sister-in-law came round to each of us with a bowl and pitcher of water. Rural Zimbabweans typically sit in a circle on the floor and eat food from one dish or bowl. In a way we followed tradition by sitting on the large number of sofas and chairs ringing the living room.
It is common, even in the 21st century, that in good weather many Zimbabwean homes use an outdoor wood burning fireplace to cook meals and this home was no exception even though they had a perfectly modern kitchen. In this household, the cook was not so common. The family’s teenage son, a Hospitality Management student at the Mutare Polytechnic Collage, and an aspiring chef, prepared the entire meal.
The Menu
- Gazelle Stew
- Sadza
- Zimbabwean Greens (similar to collard greens and kale)
- Creamed Spinach
- Beans in Tomato Sauce
Zimbabwean Greens are typically chopped when harvested and allowed to dry in the sun. They are rehydrated and cooked in a pottery pot over the fire. Spinach and beans are common in many households and on hotel buffets. The Gazelle stew was rich in flavor with tomatoes and herbs but did not have an abundance of meat. This was not economic as much as tradition. It’s purpose is to be the condiment for Sadza, the National Dish.
Sadza is a simple cornmeal mixture that is the carbohydrate staple in the Zimbabwean diet. Sadza is eaten with any kind of vegetable or meat stew at lunch or dinner. At breakfast, or even as a snack, it’s frequently eaten dipped in fermented milk, which is nearly identical to buttermilk. When eating sadza, Zimbabweans clean their hands, then using their right hand, pinch off a chunk from the bowl and roll it into a ball in their palm. Even if a person is left-handed, it is considered impolite to eat with the left hand. Like Southeast Asian sticky rice, the sadza ball is dipped into the stew or milk.
Sadza Serves 4 to 6
- 4 cups water
- 2½ cups white cornmeal (regular cornmeal may be used)
Procedure
- Bring 3 cups of the water to a boil in a large pot.
- Combine 1½ cups of the cornmeal with the remaining 1 cup water.
- Reduce heat to medium to low and add the cornmeal mixture to the boiling water, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Cook for about 5 minutes.
- Slowly adding the remaining 1 cup of cornmeal. When the mixture is very thick and starts to pull away from the sides of the pan, transfer to a serving bowl or plate.
- Use a wooden spoon to shape the mixture into a round shape.
- You may use wet hands to help shape the sadza .
Although there are a couple insects and worms that are eaten by many people at different times of the year, few visitors to Zimbabwe would find the cuisine out of their comfort zone. Breakfast in particular, especially in the urban centers and in hotels, is strictly British – eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, toast and tea. Yet if adventurous, it’s possible to find the restaurants seeking to blend tradition with more recent influences, and, if lucky, be invited to a home in the townships.
Marc d'Entremont - Years of experience as a chef, historian and teacher guides my travel and food writing. I explore all things that shape a culture.
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